Weight Watchers

Packing... There are people out there already challenged with having to pack for a weekend away. Imagine the range of emotions to go through when packing for a ~2 months trip by motorcycle through rural parts of western Africa and Europe with weight limitations. The theme here is: Less is more!
   Although it took us a good few hours until we were happy how the luggage sits, we think we're not doing too bad for overland travel novices. Riding with all that luggage will be a different story though ;-)
   Since Rory's bike has just got an overhaul we had to spend some time on Suzi. I didn't manage to do everything I wanted but the major bits have been looked after. After 2 days of stressing around the bikes we started test packing today. Takes quite some time to balance the weight of the luggage evenly and to find practical spots for everything. The first few days into the trip will tell...
   One neat idea we robbed of a fellow trainee at ADA in Joburg a couple weeks ago is the use of "dead space" on the bike such as underneath the seat. So clever indeed, we had to rob the idea.
   On another note, the application for our Côte d'Ivoire visas went smooth but since we didn't factor the Easter holidays in we won't be able to collect them until Tuesday, 2nd April. Which means the new start date of our epic journey is Wednesday, 3rd April. Wahoo!

Fatso :)

and fatsy :)

Togo

Landing in Accra on the 20th we didn’t waste any time and made our way to the Togo embassy straight from the Airport. The visa application went pretty smooth and we were able to collect our passports incl. visa the next morning. Next stop: Guinea Embassy. No hassle there either. We got the visa the same day.

   Now the real question was (and still is), how will we manage at the Cote d’Ivoire embassy? After all the stories we had read on various forums online we were sure this one would be more challenging. On one website I read of a guy who advised to bring sweeties for the lady in the embassy dealing with visa applications, apparently because you won’t get far without. Sounded like this was going to be fun. Our first impression turned out to be a completely different one though. The lady at the counter was very friendly and professional, explained what documentation she will need and how to go about payment. We left the embassy feeling well informed and confident that we will be able to obtain the precious visa. Because we didn’t have all the relevant documents with us and because we had to leave to Togo the next morning, we will have to hand in our application when we return from Togo. On another note: Hefty fees for entry visas for Guinea (110 USD each) and Cote d’Ivoire (110 EUR each).

   Thursday night WBHO once again came to the rescue with a pick-up truck to load Rory’s sick bike onto and Ruben, who would be driving us to Togo in the morning. Both Rory and I got a bit too excited seeing the bike loaded onto the truck and with our first border crossing in sight. It resulted in premature celebrations, the first of many engagement parties this time with our friends Eleanor and Tommaso and a bit of a sore head the next morning. I’d say we must have smelled like a distillery as Ruben kept the windows open for the majority of the 4 hour long journey to the Ghanaian / Togolese border at Aflao.

   Although crossing our first border by land went without any problems, it is true what everyone says. You would want to make sure to bring plenty of time and patience. Nothing is properly signposted and you have to find your way in a maze of officials and their sometimes less than obvious looking offices or shacks. While Ruben and I took care of the paperwork side of things Rory stayed with the truck and our belongings. Rory enjoyed confusing the many dealers, handlers and unofficial moneychangers by pretending he didn’t speak a word of English, French or whatever language they tested him on. He would throw random words of Irish at them or sometimes speak a few words of Twi. The keen handlers wouldn’t give up though, not knowing Rory was having his fun with them. At the end he shocked them all and caused a round of laughter when he said his good byes in fluent English. Class!

   Holding our first ever Laissez-Passer in our hands, we were good to cross the border. Welcome to Togo! 

   We've been here since Friday and our general impressions of people and country are very positive. People seem a lot friendlier and less intrusive and it's hard to believe the difference in food being only a few km outside of Ghana. The French influence is obvious and we have had a few early nights due to food coma. 

   The bike is hopefully good to go by tomorrow, Monday. Didier, the mechanic at KTM Toni - Togo doesn't think there is anything wrong with the cylinder head gasket. It is only the water pump. So this is good news! 

   Stay tuned!

The bike ambulance to Togo has arrived

Done!

Friday morning

Eleanor and Tommaso's pillow made it all the way to Togo...

Rory's bike is getting fixed at KTM TONI - TOGO in Lomé

Main road from the border into Togo's capital Lomé 

Zanzibar

After five action packed days in South Africa, from engagement ring to camping  and bike equipment shopping for the big trip and the off-road motorcycle course as well as spending (too little) time with our very generous friends and hosts Jana and Werner van der Berg, we were well ready for the next and last stage of our holiday. Zanzibar Island!

   We spent a full week recharging the batteries at Matemwe in the north-east of the Island. This particular part of the island is quite popular with divers due to the close proximity of Mnemba Island and it's 4 km large reef full with a stunning variety of colourful fish. 

  That and the fact that we won't get a perfect chance of such pleasant temperatures and ideal location any time soon again, made the decision to go for the PADI open water scuba diver certification pretty easy. Rory had no difficulties whatsoever - water is his element. Needless to say he is as much a bouncing ball under water as on the surface. He shall be referred to as the air guzzler from here on.

   But even I being more of a cat thrown into the water enjoyed the experience to the max. I've seen aquatic life with my own eyes I've only ever seen on TV before. Wonderful! We're quite proud of our certification. Not sure though if diving in Ireland would be as exciting. Somehow the prospect of the cold Atlantic ocean puts me off :) Lets see.

   It's off to Dar es Salaam on the mainland today by ferry and then early in the morning we're flying back to Ghana. The final preparation madness, Rory's bike fix and visa hunt is now only a couple days away. Stay tuned!

Karibu, welcome at Matemwe Lodge.

What a view over the Indian Ocean to wake up to every morning. Life is good!

Best spot in the house 

Hotel grounds

Great place to cool down while watching the ocean and small fishing boats go by.

Mnemba Island in the background. It is surrounded by an oval reef of 4 km.
This is where we did our PADI open water scuba diver certification.

Best spot for sipping cocktails and watching
the sun go down and the stars come out.

A typical fishing boat carved out of a single tree trunk without any power tools.

Literally bath tub warm water at low tide

The hotel supports a conservation project of the Green Sea Turtle. There are numerous sign posts indicating where, when and how many eggs were laid and when they are due to hatch.

We were privileged to watch how two baby turtles who had not hatched in time with their other brothers and sisters made it to the surface when one of the conservation project workers dug a hole to bury a new batch of eggs.

A new batch of Green Sea Turtle eggs ready to be buried in sand.
They look a bit like dented golf balls if you ask me.

Legends - both instinctively trying to head for the ocean but they had to be held back because the tide is too low and one of them had to see a marine vet first because of some apparent disabilities. 

The water from the beach is way too hot and would boil the poor things if left in there for too long. A rescue plan was made and off went Rory by Kajak to get cooler water further into the sea. Rory Green Sea Turtle Hero!

The healthy turtle was released later at high tide and the disabled turtle made it through the night and got to the marine centre in Nungwi in the north of Zanzibar. Let's hope he'll make it. 

This our group of fellow divers on our first open water dive. The guy leaning on a scuba tank is the very patient Jesse from Scubafish, our instructor.

Diving survived! :)

Fun on Two Wheels

One of the many definite highlights so early into our holiday was the weekend off-road motorcycle course with African Dream Adventures (ADA) in the 'cradle of humankind' in Gauteng, South Africa. 

   We met a lot of great people, in particular our instructors Judy and Mark who with their vast experience and enthusiasm made this an unforgettable experience. We can't leave unmentioned here the length they both went to in helping us progress with our skills for the big trip. Mark, if you're reading this you are an absolute legend for giving Rory your 'baby' (we are talking about a KTM). To lend your bike to a complete stranger and novice on the dirt is a very noble thing to do. I bet you liked how Rory thanked you by roostering you with your own bike ;-)

Some of the stuff we got up to and in most cases confidently mastered by the end of the course:

   - In depth practise of throttle and clutch control

   - Proper balance and positioning

   - Uphill recovery

   - Sand riding

   - Skidding

   - Gravel and loose rock tracks (such as found in river beds)

   - Light jumps / bunny hops 

It's been an absolute joy and our thanks go out to Heine and his family (the food was to die for!) and everyone else involved. We will make sure to be back for DP2.

Judy and Mark demonstrating what to do and not to do when stuck in sand

Mark talking me through a steep up- and downhill ride

Smiling for the camera, inside I'm dying a little bit... 

I made it up and down in one piece! Piece of cake ;-)
Thanks to a very patient instructor!

Debrief after 2 absolutely amazing days filled with fun and learning. Tired but happy heads on us.

Cheers to that!

Watching the pro's making a tire change look easy