rory + stephs travels: Togo

Landing in Accra on the 20th we didn’t waste any time and made our way to the Togo embassy straight from the Airport. The visa application went pretty smooth and we were able to collect our passports incl. visa the next morning. Next stop: Guinea Embassy. No hassle there either. We got the visa the same day.

Now the real question was (and still is), how will we manage at the Cote d’Ivoire embassy? After all the stories we had read on various forums online we were sure this one would be more challenging. On one website I read of a guy who advised to bring sweeties for the lady in the embassy dealing with visa applications, apparently because you won’t get far without. Sounded like this was going to be fun. Our first impression turned out to be a completely different one though. The lady at the counter was very friendly and professional, explained what documentation she will need and how to go about payment. We left the embassy feeling well informed and confident that we will be able to obtain the precious visa. Because we didn’t have all the relevant documents with us and because we had to leave to Togo the next morning, we will have to hand in our application when we return from Togo. On another note: Hefty fees for entry visas for Guinea (110 USD each) and Cote d’Ivoire (110 EUR each).

Thursday night WBHO once again came to the rescue with a pick-up truck to load Rory’s sick bike onto and Ruben, who would be driving us to Togo in the morning. Both Rory and I got a bit too excited seeing the bike loaded onto the truck and with our first border crossing in sight. It resulted in premature celebrations, the first of many engagement parties this time with our friends Eleanor and Tommaso and a bit of a sore head the next morning. I’d say we must have smelled like a distillery as Ruben kept the windows open for the majority of the 4 hour long journey to the Ghanaian / Togolese border at Aflao.

Although crossing our first border by land went without any problems, it is true what everyone says. You would want to make sure to bring plenty of time and patience. Nothing is properly signposted and you have to find your way in a maze of officials and their sometimes less than obvious looking offices or shacks. While Ruben and I took care of the paperwork side of things Rory stayed with the truck and our belongings. Rory enjoyed confusing the many dealers, handlers and unofficial moneychangers by pretending he didn’t speak a word of English, French or whatever language they tested him on. He would throw random words of Irish at them or sometimes speak a few words of Twi. The keen handlers wouldn’t give up though, not knowing Rory was having his fun with them. At the end he shocked them all and caused a round of laughter when he said his good byes in fluent English. Class!

Holding our first ever Laissez-Passer in our hands, we were good to cross the border. Welcome to Togo!

We've been here since Friday and our general impressions of people and country are very positive. People seem a lot friendlier and less intrusive and it's hard to believe the difference in food being only a few km outside of Ghana. The French influence is obvious and we have had a few early nights due to food coma.

The bike is hopefully good to go by tomorrow, Monday. Didier, the mechanic at KTM Toni - Togo doesn't think there is anything wrong with the cylinder head gasket. It is only the water pump. So this is good news!

Stay tuned!